So… you got that big brake kit you have always wanted and been constantly abuse on them. You feel the brake is not a strong as before and noise and dragging becomes apparent, maybe it is time to service your brakes?
As disc brake starting to show signs of a brake pull or noise, it is time to perform a routine caliper maintenance. One of the most common brake caliper issue is the caliper piston fails to retract. In order for the wheels to rotate freely, a tiny air gap must exist between the rotor and brake pad. When the pads on one wheel drag against the rotor, the pad may glaze or the brake assembly temperatures may increase enough to change the coefficient of friction causing uneven pressure between the pad and rotor surface resulting in brake-pulling.
A friendly reminder, a low master cylinder reservoir fluid level might indicate that the brake pads are excessively worn. Brake fluid supplied by the reservoir is used to fill the caliper bore as the caliper piston extends to compensate for pad wear. In any case, a low fluid level at the master cylinder reservoir indicates the need for a thorough brake system inspection.
Brake pad wear can be an indicator of caliper condition. If the inside pad is more worn than the outside pad, there exist the possibility that one or more of the brake caliper piston may be seized. Either type of caliper — fixed or floating — will cause the brake pads to drag against the rotor when the pistons are seized into the caliper bores. In addition, the caliper boot should not show any signs of fluid leakage nor should the caliper boot appear hardened or cracked. The piston will eventually corrode and seize in place if a defective caliper boot allows moisture to accumulate between the caliper bore and piston.
Calipers with integrated parking brake hardware should be inspected for fluid leakage and correct parking brake operation, and service brake pedal travel. In some applications, the parking brake must be used regularly to compensate for brake pad wear. Excessive service brake pedal travel may result if the driver doesn’t use the park brake regularly or if the parking brake cable or caliper hardware is seized.
Although you’re not likely to rebuild a disc brake caliper in the near future, it still pays to understand how in case, you find yourself rebuilding the original calipers on a classic or collector import vehicle.
First, it’s important to establish safe work habits before beginning any hydraulic brake service by consulting an appropriate service manual. The pressure in the anti-lock brake accumulator should be released by pumping the brake pedal as specified by a service manual or until the pedal feels hard. Next, the bleeder screw should be loosened to allow old fluid to be flushed out of the caliper bore. In some cases, a clogged bleeder screw must be removed for cleaning or replacement. If the bleeder screw is seized, it’s probably cheaper to replace the caliper.
There are two methods of thought on preventing debris from being flushed into the anti-lock braking and master cylinder assemblies when the piston is seated in the caliper bore. The first method opens the bleeder screw to relieve pressure as the caliper piston is seated. The second method clamps the brake hose closed with a pair of hose-clamping pliers to prevent debris from back-flushing into the master cylinder. The first method is the most commonly accepted because there’s less chance of inadvertently damaging the hose.
Seized caliper pistons can be difficult and dangerous to remove, so be cautious. Perhaps the safest method is to bottom the piston with a common C-clamp to push out excess fluid, and then ease the piston from the bore by gently applying air pressure to the brake hose port while backing out the C-clamp screw.
When the piston is ready to exit the bore, cover the caliper assembly with a shop towel to prevent the brake fluid from spattering. If the piston is so badly seized that it doesn’t respond to controlled air pressure, the caliper should be replaced.
Because the piston surface seals the brake caliper, the piston should be in like-new condition. If the piston is pitted or scored, it should be replaced.
Replacing the dust seals often requires a dedicated tool to guide the seals into the caliper bore. The most common method for installing the piston into the boot is to hold the piston in place with a piston seating tool while inflating the boot with compressed air. This method works well on small-bore calipers. Boot expansion tools must generally be used on large-bore calipers with shallow-boot designs.
The piston must be perfectly square with the bore before it will pass through the flat-cut O-ring in the caliper bore. The simplest method is to use a square bar to gently rock the piston from side-to-side until it drops into the caliper bore.
Once the piston is installed, carefully remove the caliper guide pins and lubricate them with synthetic caliper grease or the OEM-recommended lubricant. When installing the caliper bracket bolts, apply thread-locking compound, if required. In other cases, lightly oil the bolts and torque them to specification. Always install new caliper hardware on the caliper bracket to prevent pad rattle and dampen pad squeal.
A correctly serviced caliper should slide smoothly on its guide pins or guide surfaces, and should allow the rotor to turn freely when brake pedal pressure is released. If the caliper won’t release, the interior rubber of the brake hose might be peeling and blocking the return of fluid to the master cylinder reservoir. In other cases, the master cylinder push rod or brake pedal height might be incorrectly adjusted, which prevents the master cylinder from releasing the fluid pressure from within the caliper.